For most of us who are on the go, makeup can be one of the things we don't have a lot of time for in the mornings. Usually around 3pm, we look in the mirror only to notice our makeup has totally disappeared. Almost as if it melted right off our face, what once was perfectly applied foundation and blush now resembles barely there, tired looking skin. Maybe your eyeshadow looked incredible at 7am, but since then has completely creased and is no where to be found. 

This can be frustrating due to the fact we spend a lot of time and money on our makeup and expect it to last. So what do you do when you find yourself with less than fresh makeup, or barely non at all? Here's my guide on how to keep your makeup fresh and last through the entire day, even for the earliest of risers: 

1. Prep: Using a primer before makeup is a great way to ensure it lasting through the day with no fuss. If you have oily skin or suffer from acne, try using a mattifying primer, if you like a soft sheen to the skin you should use a primer with spf, and for visible pores use a smoothing primer to ensure a great base for foundation. If you have issues with redness or ruddy looking skin, a primer that has color neutralizing ingredients in it will help cut red and give skin an even tone. 

2. Products: Investing in products that have staying power is key when working towards getting your makeup to last all day. Using eyeshadow primer will keep any shadow from creasing or liner from running, long wear waterproof and gel eyeliners will stay where they are supposed to, and cream blushes that have a nice pigment to them will hold up to oil, sweat, and shine better than powder. Instead of brow pencils, switch to a brow pomade that won't wear down through the day, but still looks natural. Knowing the right products to invest in will give you peace of mind, and get you one step closer to achieving your goal.

3. Touch Up Kit: Makeup artists will use touch-up kits through the day when working, to ensure that nothing goes wrong on a photo shoot or with clients. The best thing you can do if you have issues with makeup lasting, is to have a small touch-up kit in your purse or bag with you. It doesn't need to be an enormous bag filled with product, just a few staple things to help you get through the day if an issue arises. Powder, concealer, lipstick, and blush are great to keep in your bag along with an eyelash curler. 

The most important tip? Always remember to keep your hands off your face! Continually touching or rubbing your face  can cause makeup to smear, germs to spread, and ruin your hard work. Ain't nobody got time for that!

Opeyemmie Oshoko

Ways to Make Sure "Black Doesn't Crack"

What Causes Skin to Age?

In the natural skin aging process, collagen and elastin breaks down, the skin begins to lose elasticity, gets thinner, less plump and smooth and pores become more noticeable.

What Are the Signs of Aging in Black Skin?

Dry Skin

Cell turnover slows with age causing dull, dry skin. The number of sweat and oil glands decrease and also leads to drier skin, as does the loss of estrogen through menopause. This happens in all races, but mature black skin can become easily irritated and dry due to seasonal changes as well as products.

Skin Roughness

Black skin typically shows signs of aging in texture. The appearance of rough, bumpy skin is due to the decrease in proper cell turnover, as well as sun damage.

Sagging Skin

Another sign of aging in black skin, is sagging (at the sides of the nose and down to the corners of the mouth, and on the neck).

Skin Growths and Discolorations

Some women might also notice benign skin growths (dermatosis papulosa nigra) dark marks, white age spots and discolorations.

Black Don't Crack?

The good news: Signs of aging, such as wrinkling, show up at a later age in black skin. However, those with lighter skin tone are at greater risk for showing the signs of photo aging with fine wrinkles and sun spots.

Tips for Ageless Black Beauty

Before you click off your computer in disgust, there are ways to help slow the wrinkly hands of time:

The Sign: Dry Skin

• To avoid dry skin, cleanse less. It might sound crazy, but cleansing less frequently will lessen the appearance of dry skin. As you get older, you will probably be perspiring less, so try to reduce bathing or showering to once a day. If this doesn’t seem doable, at least limit the amount of time spent in the shower and soaking in the bath. Use warm, not hot, water in the shower and bath and when washing the face.
• Wash the face once a day. If you wear makeup, cleanse at the end of the day. (In the morning, just splash the face with water and skip the cleanser.)
• For both face and body, avoid abrasive cleansers, opting for mild cleansers and products formulated for dry skin that will cleanse as well as moisturize.
• Keep skin well hydrated, using moisturizer with rich creams and lotions, applied immediately after washing to seal moisture in the skin.
Hydrating Face Serums
• Keeping the skin moisturized, whenever the skin feels dry, will help reduce itchiness and the appearance of fine lines. Just be sure to use products for your skin type and skin concerns. Keep in mind that as you age, products that used to do wonders may no longer work.
More Tips for Dry Skin
• Avoid Skin Irritation:
• Sensitive Skin. Some women might find that skin can begin to become more sensitive as they get older. You may notice sensitivity to things that never bothered you before, such as fabric softeners, detergents, bleach and other irritants, as well as other things like wool.
• Always test products before use. The American Academy of Dermatology (AAD) recommends testing products even if they are labeled "hypoallergenic," before using them on the face. Put a small amount on the inner forearm once a day for 4-5 days. If there is no reaction it’s safe to apply on the face.
• If a product stings or burns, discontinue use, unless a dermatologist prescribed the product. In this case check with the dermatologist to see if the reaction is normal. Irritated skin (dryness, itchiness, flakiness, peeling, etc.) can make the signs of aging more pronounced.
• Don’t use too many products. Using too many anti-aging products, and therefore several active ingredients, can irritate the skin.
• Use products as directed. You may think using more will increase the effectiveness or speed up the results, but because of certain active ingredients, you could do more harm than good. Using more than directed by the manufacturer can lead to clogged pores, blotchy complexion, redness and/or other problems.
• Stop the on & off again relationship with products. It's not a great idea to keep changing products too frequently, especially if you have sensitive skin. You don't give your skin enough time to adjust.
• Give products time to work. Some products can take from three weeks up to a few months (if ever) to show results.
The Sign: Bumpy/Rough Skin
• Exfoliation can help. Use topical treatments serums with retinol to increase cell turnover, humectants that contain glycerin or hyaluronic acid.
• If deeper exfoliation is desired, chemical peels or microdermabrasion might also be helpful.
The Sign: Uneven Skin Tone
• Uneven skin tone and blotchiness in mature black skin can be due to long-term sun damage. Use sunscreen, as well as protective clothing, to prevent further damage and discoloration.
• If you have hyperpigmentation problems, consult a dermatologist to recommend a safe lightening agent to get rid of discoloration and exfoliating products (like glycolic acid or salicylic peels, creams and cleansers) to even out skin tone.
Sun Safety for Women of Color
The Sign: Skin Growths
• Benign overgrowths on skin called skin tags (dermatosis papulosa nigra) found on the face and on the neck and on the body (seborrheic keratosis) can also develop as you age and tend to run in families. A dermatologist would have to remove these either surgically or cauterize them (burn them off).
• If you are prone to keloids (raised scars that form at the site of an injury), discuss this with a doctor. It might be better to leave them alone or you could end up with scarring.
The Sign: Fine Lines & Wrinkles
• Use moisturizers that plump up the skin Eventually you will notice that lines created by your expressions—furrowed lines from raised eyebrows, laugh lines, crow’s feet and squinting (from smoking or not wearing your glasses or the correct prescription, etc) aren’t going away.
• Exfoliate the skin on regular basis to encourage cell renewal, using products with glycolic (alpha hydroxy acid) or salicylic acid (beta hydroxy acid).
• Add serums to your routine, with antioxidants like Vitamin C. Follow with a moisturizer containing broad-spectrum sunscreen.
• Add vitamin A. In the evening use a good nighttime moisturizer with vitamin A (retinol).
Cosmetic Fillers and Surgery
• For deep wrinkles, Botox and fillers can be injected into lines and wrinkles, but these methods are temporary fixes.
• Other methods used to create younger-looking skin are chemical peels, dermabrasion, laser resurfacing and facelifts. Just bear in mind that many of these procedures have adverse effects on skin of color, so you will need to consult a cosmetic surgeon that understands and has done successful procedures on skin of color.

Opeyemmie Oshoko

What’s In Your Beauty Products?

Pregnancy causes hormonal changes that affect the body and therefore the skin. Skin during pregnancy can experience anything from blotchiness to acne. While some of us might take chances with cosmetics that some deem unsafe because it’s not scientifically proven, pregnancy can make one a lot more concerned about what’s actually in beauty products. Ingredients, especially in lotions, creams and oils, can be absorbed into the bloodstream and be potentially harmful to the unborn child. You might want to change your products, as well as your skin care routine, especially if you plan to breastfeed. Fortunately there are many products that are specially formulated for pregnant women to safely address their special skin care needs.

Some Ingredients to Avoid

Salicylic Acid. Salicylic acid is used to treat skin disorders such as acne, because it helps deep cleanse pores and exfoliate the skin. High doses of salicylic acid in oral form, though, have been known to cause birth defects. While some health professionals say that a small amount of the topical form is safe in certain products, it’s best to avoid even topical use of salicylic acids, and in facial and body peels in particular. To be on the safe side avoid beta hydroxy acids (BHA) and alpha hydroxy acids (AHA).

Retinoids. Retinoids are great anti-aging agents in cosmetics, but high doses of vitamin A has been proven to be harmful to the unborn child. Isotretinoin, an oral retinol found in products like Accutane, which is used for acne, also causes birth defects. It’s not shown to cause problems in topical form (Retin-A, Renova) but it’s best to avoid using products containing this ingredient.

Try Organic

Since there are other chemical ingredients found in everyday beauty products that can potentially harm the reproductive health of your child, opt for certified organic products shampoos, lotions, body washes and cosmetics.

If you’re unsure about your products, consult your obstetrician about products that are safe to use during pregnancy. Your doctor can make recommendations for products that are best for you as well as give you advice.

Skin Problems During and After Pregnancy

There are a few skin problems that can crop up during and after pregnancy because of hormonal and physical changes.

Melasma

Women of color are susceptible to skin discolorations due to excess melanin production and pregnancy produces hormones (more estrogen and progesterone) that stimulate the skin to make more melanocytes. One such skin discoloration is melasma, also called “the mask of pregnancy,” which can occur in the second to third trimester. The condition causes dark brown patches to appear on the cheeks, forehead and upper lip. UV rays aggravate melasma. Be sure to wear a safe sunscreen and limit your time in the sun to prevent dark patches from appearing. If you do get dark patches, do not use bleaching products. Melasma usually fades after delivery. Meanwhile you can use a concealer on the discolorations.

How to Treat Melasma During Pregnancy

Stretch Marks

There’s not much that you can do to prevent stretch marks and some women are more susceptible to them than others. To help reduce stretch marks, drink a lot of water, make sure you take any vitamins and nutrients recommended by your obstetrician, and eat a healthy diet. You can also use a gentle skin brush or washcloth to massage the skin and increase blood flow to the area, which might help. Before the stretch marks have a chance to form, keep the skin moisturized by applying a natural emollient like cocoa butter to your stomach and breasts.

Acne/Oily Skin

During pregnancy the skin can become oilier. If this is the case, switch to oil-free formulas. Breakouts can occur during the first trimester. As mentioned, prescription acnemedications have been proven to be harmful to use during pregnancy. Consult your obstetrician about how to safely treat acne. One good note, if you already have acne, sometimes pregnancy actually clears up the condition!

Other tips for breakout prevention:

• When using makeup opt for products that are noncomedogenic to avoid clogging the pores and causing breakouts.

• Use mild cleansers daily to remove excess oil and prevent breakouts.

Dry Skin

• Keep skin moisturized. Avoid hot bathes and showers and use mild cleansers that will not further dry out skin.

• You can also get dry, itchy bellies from the stretching of the skin. Massage the belly with cocoa butter.

• For sore, cracked nipples, instead of regular lotions and moisturizers, use special nipple creams and ointments.

Tired, Swollen Feet

• Moisturize and massage feet with a refreshing foot gel or cream that contains cooling ingredients like menthol, eucalyptus or peppermint oil.

Varicose Veins

• Avoid prolonged standing and be sure to get enough vitamin c in your diet.

Makeup Tips

• If you experiencing dry skin, use hydrating foundations or tinted moisturizers.

• Use blusher to perk up tired complexions.

• Be sure to get enough rest. If getting your full eight hours isn’t an option (especially after delivery), use concealer under the eyes for dark circles. Take five to ten minutes to cover puffy eyes with cool cucumber slices, moist tea bags or cool compresses.

• When using concealers, use a shade lighter than your foundation. Then apply foundation only on areas where you have not applied concealer.

• Remember to finish off your look with lipstick or lip gloss in a shade that you love.

Take care of yourself.

Be sure to get enough sleep and try relaxation techniques like meditation or take pre-natal yoga classes. Stress is a big beauty buster.

Opeyemmie Oshoko

Actress Raven-Symone has this problem. She calls them “strawberry legs”—the dark pores that resemble dark dots on the legs. Just like strawberries with tiny spots covering the fruit’s surface, dark pores can be quite noticeable on the legs, especially on light or olive skin tones. The medical term for these pores is open comedones. These are open pores that have excess oil, dirt and bacteria trapped inside the skin. Once exposed to the air, the oil reacts with oxygen and the pores turn dark or black.

Camouflage makeup is a quick fix, but if you don’t adequately remove the makeup you can end up making the problem worse by clogging the pores or further irritating the skin with chemical ingredients. And who wants to apply and then remove leg makeup every day? There’s also a chance of the makeup getting all over clothing and other things that your legs touch. So what can you do? Here are a few tips to help you get rid of dark pores on the legs.

1. Shaving

Women often notice the appearance of dark pores after shaving their legs. Using a dull razor that pulls at the hair, but doesn’t completely remove the follicle, can cause this. The hair follicle opening becomes clogged and blocked with oil and dead skin cells. One thing you can do is to stop shaving. If that’s not a possibility, shave less frequently and when you do shave, here areshaving tips to help you reduce the appearance of dark pores.

2. Alternatives to Shaving

While shaving is the quickest, easiest and cheapest method for hair removal, it might be necessary to stop shaving. You can try alternative methods like depilatories, waxing or laser hair removal, but remember these methods have their own set of problems. Find the best hair removal method for you.

Regular Skin Care to Rid the Legs of Dark Pores

3. Keep Pores Clean

Reduce the chance of dark pores appearing by regularly exfoliating the skin to get rid of dead skin and blockage from sebum, dirt, and impurities that can get into the pores. These mixtures of ingredients are great to use for exfoliating the skin and help alleviate dark pores on the legs.

• Mix 2 tbsp of sugar with 4 tbsp of olive oil.

• Mix 1 tbsp of baking soda with 1 tsp of warm water.

• Mix enough salt with buttermilk to make a paste.

• Mix 2 tbsp of brown sugar, 2 tbsp aloe vera gel and 1 tsp lemon juice into a paste.

• Blend equal parts of brown sugar and baking soda with water to make a paste.

Instructions: Exfoliate with natural, mildly abrasive scrubs. Using a loofah, exfoliating mitt or a towel, gently massage the scrub onto affected areas (or the entire leg) with small circular motions for several minutes, beginning at the ankles and working your way up. Rinse or gentle wipe off with warm water. Splash skin with cold water.

4. Massage

Massage legs with healing oils or lotions with healing ingredients like aloe vera to increase circulation, keep skin moisturized and healthy. Other ideas:

• Add pure glycerin to vitamin E oil, almond oil, jojoba or coconut oil.

• Peel and mash a cucumber and apply the cucumber juice to affected areas. After a few usages this will help reduce the color of the dark pores.

• Add a couple of drops of tea tree oil to two tablespoons of olive oil and massage into the area for a few minutes.

• A few drops of sandalwood oil in olive oil or coconut oil

• Equal parts of lime (or lemon) juice, cucumber juice and rosewater to legs

(Learn how to make your own rosewater.)

• Apply egg whites on pores and leave on for several minutes, rinse with cold water

A note about the ingredients: Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA) aid in the shedding of dead skin for smoother skin and decrease inflammation from razor bumps, improve texture of the skin and decrease discoloration. Glycolic acid was originally derived from sugar cane, hence the use of sugar. Other AHAs are lactic acid (milk) and citric acid (lemons, limes). If you have sensitive skin and are prone to hyperpigmentation speak with a dermatologist who specializes in treating ethnic skin before using glycolic acid and AHAs. Also avoid abrasive scrubs.

Lime is an astringent and gentler on the skin than lemon. Cucumbers, aloe vera,rosewater and sandalwood oil are good for inflammation. Avocado and olive oil are greatemollients. Coconut oil is antibacterial. Salt is a good for exfoliation, but sugar is a gentler exfoliant for sensitive skin. Brown sugar is better for sensitive skin than white granular sugar.

Opeyemmie Oshoko

Certain skin care basics are relatively universal, but multicultural women have specific concerns that aren’t always adequately addressed, even by some skin care professionals. Here you’ll find solutions, tips, advice, plus skin care treatments and regimens geared toward your special needs.

Healthy Skin of Color: Problems & Solutions

While all human skin is basically the same, skin of color has cellular and structural differences that make it more sensitive and reactive. The sun, certain skin conditions, beauty treatments and other factors can lead to skin discolorations, keloid scars and other problems. Our skin is delicate and has special needs. Learn how to handle it with care.

Opeyemmie Oshoko

You have a few options to make lipstick last longer. Here are my favorites.

Line the Inside of the Lips

If you line the inside of the lips, your lipstick will "stick" to the liner, lasting longer. Simply fill in lips with lip liner and then apply lipstick over that. The lip liner acts as a base. You'll love the results.

Fill in Lips With Concealer

For longer lasting color, try this trick: Fill in lips with concealer, then apply powder to set it. Apply lipstick over this.

Apply Gel Blush on Lips as a Base

Another trick to keep lipstick in place and to keep lip liner from feathering is to apply a gel blush on lips as a base. Sounds silly, I know, but I've read about this so many times in magazines and books, I have to assume it works.

Try a Long-lasting Lip Stain

For my wedding, I wore Chanel's Ultra Wear Lip Colour because it acts like a stain. You apply it and it stays put for hours. It comes with a bit of gloss to make it appear less matte.

Opeyemmie Oshoko

A classic red lip never gets old!

Red lipstick is like the little black dress or perfect strand of pearls, bringing sophistication or sultriness to an evening look.

It’s definitely one of the sexiest, if not the sexiest lipstick shade.

Red Hot

Red lipstick has been known to make a woman feel more confident. According to color psychology, the color red is a warm and positive color. It is an energizing color, giving confidence, especially to those who are shy or need a boost of boldness. It’s also stimulates intimacy and passion. It is a color of sexuality, desire and lust (which explains the male attraction to the lip color.)

Is Red the Sexiest Lip Color?

Red is also apparently a lipstick shade that men find attractive. A 2010 study conducted by scientists at Manchester University tracked the eye movements of 50 men and showed that men fixated on a woman’s lips longer when she is wearing lipstick. Their eyes lingered even longer on women with full lips, wearing red lipstick.

The Right Shade of Red

The right shade of lipstick can brighten a face, while the wrong red could overpower a makeup look or make one look tawdry.

With so many variations in skin tone and undertones in women of color, the right shade of red can depend on a slew of factors, even the color of clothing. Don't be afraid to experiment to find the shade of red that you love.

In general, these shades tend to work:

Pale/fair and light olive skin tends to look better in cool reds, berry reds like cranberry, with blue undertones.

Medium skin tones look great in brownish-reds.

Olive skin looks best in yellow or orange-based reds.

Dark skin can handle more intense color, like deep reds and reds with blue undertones. Fabulous wines, berries and brick reds look great.

·         You might need to experiment to find your perfect red shade.

·         You don’t have to toss a red that is too bright or too dark. A too light red can be deepened with a brown or wine-colored shade. You can give a dull or too dark red a little pizzazz with a pop of gold gloss or lighten dark red with pink or beige.

·         Also note that a lipstick’s texture, cream, matte or gloss, could have an effect on the way the shade looks on your lips.

·         If you still feel red lipstick is too bright for you, you can ease into red with a sheer lip gloss or try a lip stain to gradually add color.

How to Wear Red Lipstick

·         Pair minimal eye makeup with a bold red lip. Keep the eye shadow soft or neutral. Opt for groomed eyebrows, precisely lined eyes and mascara.

·         A bold lip color needs smooth lips. Be sure to regularly exfoliate the lips to prevent flaking and to keep the lips moisturized.

·         Use a lip primer before applying color.

·         Apply red lipstick with a lip brush for more precision and less of a chance that lip color will seep into fine lines.

See this article for more tips for perfect lips.

Lip Tips

·         If your lips are thin, avoid very deep reds.

·         Beware of reds with too much of a brown base if you have a yellowish tint to your teeth. Brown can bring out yellow in teeth. If this is the case, you might want to try a red with a blue undertone.

·         For inspiration, look at these images of celebrities wearing red lipstick, which will give you an idea how red lipstick looks on different skin tones.

Opeyemmie Oshoko